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21.12.21

The Ultimate Guide to the Pear Shaped Diamond

By Stephanie Dore

While some folks might say the pear shaped diamond is a little outdated, we strongly beg to differ. In fact, pear shaped diamond engagement rings, dare we say, are actually on trend. Sure, you can find some super traditional pears in classic solitaire settings, but we love a good modern pear that’s totally made to measure. That’s right, customizing a dreamy pear shaped diamond engagement ring has never been easier. Or more enticing. The shape boasts the best of both round and marquise cut diamonds, giving you more size for your money and all the brilliance you just die over. Every time. Here’s what you need to know:

Faking the Grade

When it comes to shopping for any diamond, we always recommend putting cut grade at the top of your 4Cs priority list. This is because a diamond’s cut plays the biggest role in, well, how well your diamond sparkles. And nobody wants a dull, drab rock on their pretty little finger. But what happens when only round diamonds have cut grades (which is, sadly, the case for now)? Well, when it comes to copping a sweet little pear for yourself, see: shape, symmetry, and length to width ratio.

Frank Darling pear diamond half bezel yellow gold engagement ring
Pears are known for their signature elongation and sparkle, and a custom half bezel is an amazing way to showcase the shape.
Frank Darling pear diamond pavé platinum engagement ring
Chunky or thin and elongated, perfectly proportioned facets or wild and dazzling, there are a million ways to approach you dream pear!

Seeing Things

Think that pear is looking a little lopsided? Well, darling, you’re probably not wrong. In fact, pear cuts are one of the wildest shapes out there. Sometimes their sides are extra curvy, sometimes extra straight. Sometimes their shoulders are more square or their head extra flat. And sometimes they’re just plain wonky, and we want to avoid that. This is where symmetry comes in — and this is where you have to start using your eyes. If it looks off, look away and find a different stone. If you want to hit the sweet spot, opt for a pear in the 1.55 – 1.60 length to width ratio range for a perfectly plump lump of sparkle. More elongated pears tend to look too skinny, and chunkier pears end up looking like poorly cut trillions with fat bottoms and straight sides. Ultimately, check the photos, videos, or get help from our Diamond Concierge to find a pear cut diamond that’s all that and more.

Looking Sharp

There is one little thing to beware of when shopping for a pear. Its bow tie. Yes, babe, like the oval cut, pear shaped diamonds have bow ties. Think about it, it’s basically like an oval with one pointed end. So it shouldn’t be too much of a surprise. What’s a bow tie? It’s an area that runs across the widest point of a pear, creating a dark area instead of bouncing light back to your eye. Can you avoid it? Sure. Well, sort of. You can find stones where it’s less apparent, but ultimately it’s going to be there a little bitsy bit. And there’s no specific faceting pattern or proportional measurement that will guarantee it’s not there. The only way to know? Look at your stone, especially in motion. This is where videos come in super handy.

Another amazing thing about pears? They look incredible in unique setting formats!
Frank Darling pear bezel halo engagement ring in rose gold
Due to their depth variation from one end to the other, one pear can give off multiple, almost color-changing hues based on lighting!

Drops of Sunshine

Pears are also a bit wonky when it comes to color because their ends have drastically different depths. The round end is deep, while the pointed end is quite shallow. The cut of that pointed end also tends to showcase a bit more body color, which means overall if you’re looking for “colorless” you’ll want to keep it above an H color stone. If you don’t mind a bit of warmth, though, or are digging the yellow gold look (very on trend of you), then go for something lower, or even a light yellow or champagne hued stone and accentuate it with a golden setting. Sounds like sunshine and buttercups and baby ducks. All good things.

Great Things

On the other hand, because pear shaped diamonds have brilliant faceting patterns, they are still pretty good at hiding clarity characteristics, aka inclusions. So you should have no problem finding an eye-clean pear cut diamond in the SI range. Another super popular take is the salt and pepper pear cut diamond, which is basically a heavily included stone that showcases — instead of trying to hide — its natural, beautiful inclusions. You’ll find plenty of pear cut salt and pepper stones out there and you can save yourself some serious wallet fatigue with this fancy option too.

Frank Darling pear shaped diamond half bezel yellow gold engagement ring
Looking for a shape that elongates your fingers? A pear is the perfect choice.
Frank Darling pear shaped diamond and emerald toi et moi half bezel yellow gold engagement ring
Pears are the perfect pairing for the super trendy toi et moi style.

Last and Least (ish)

We’ll pretty much always tell you that carat should be the least of your concerns, because while it does play a significant role in the price of your diamond, it has nothing to do with its beauty. Sure, if you want a gigantic diamond dangling off your finger, and that’s super important to you, then go big (but please don’t sacrifice brilliance). But, pro tip? Pear shaped diamonds can cost significantly less than rounds (which are the most expensive shape) of the same carat weight…like, even 25-35% less depending on the market. So just by the simple act of choosing a pear, you’re going to save serious cash. Bonus points for the fact that pears, because of their elongated cut, will also look about 15-25% larger than a round brilliant diamond of the same weight.

Sundials

One of the most fun parts of picking a pear cut diamond engagement ring, darling, is deciding how to set that stunning stone. Sure, you can keep it classic with the stone running north to south, but we’re having so much fun turning pretty little pears every direction under the sun. Want to set it east to west (facing horizontally across your finger)? We’re down with that. But we also love a jauntily tilted pear cut diamond that does it’s own thing. Or go with a two-stone design pairing it with another shape for contrast. Just make sure that no matter how you set your stone, you’re protecting that pear’s point, as it’s super delicate.

Frank Darling pear shaped diamond east west two-tone yellow gold engagement ring
East-west pears are a gorgeous and low-key take on the shape.

Pick Your Fighter

Ready to find the pear cut diamond of your dreams? Shop our collection of more than 20,000 natural and lab-created diamonds and unique engagement ring designs to find your perfect match. You can even try some on from the comfort of your couch with our free try-at-home kit. Or try designing a custom pear shaped engagement ring with a free sketch! Don’t see what you’re looking for? Email us at hello@frankdarling.com. We’ll curate a list of 5-7 exclusive stones that are just right for you.

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