The princess cut was developed in the 1960s and features both brilliant and step facets and a distinctive square shape. Unlike the marquise cut diamond (allegedly), the princess cut diamond was not invented to pay homage to well-princesses. Instead, the cut's inventor, Arpad Nagy, set out to create a diamond shape that could rival the brilliance of the round brilliant cut white taking full advantage of rough octahedral diamonds.

An octahedral diamond is a raw diamond shape that looks like two pyramids stacked with their bottoms touching the other. Nagy realized that by splitting the rough diamond in two at the point where the pyramids met, he could be left with enough raw diamond material to make two square shaped diamonds. From there in 1980, Betazel Ambar, Ygal Perlman, and Israel Itzkowitz the princess cut.

Princess cut diamonds feature pointed corners that create a distinctive square shape. While beautiful, these corners can be fragile, and like any other shape that ends in points, are more susceptible to breaking. As a result, it might be useful to consider a bezel or prong setting that safely secures these points.

Princess cuts usually contain 57 facets, and the most notable of these facets is the chevron. These V-shaped facets stretch across the pavilion of the diamond with the first chevron facet creating an X-like shape that makes up the pavilion's main facet. The X is then filled out with more chevrons, usually with a minimum of two and a maximum of four. If your princess cut contains two chevrons you can expect a flashier diamond thanks to the broad facets that reflect equally long flash. Likewise, more chevrons equal shorter facets with bursts of sparkle.

Princess cut diamonds will usually have either a French or bezel corner facet. Bezel corners, which feature diamond shaped facets extending from the table to the end, create a more angular faceting look while French corners, which feature a star facet, will have a broader center. It is vitally important to protect these corners, whether you choose a French or bezel corner facet.

Princess cut diamonds ebb and flow in popularity, with them peaking in the late 1990s and early aughts.

Hilary Duff, when married to retired NHL player Mike Comrie, sported a 14-carat princess cut diamond that was sandwiched between two baguette stones. Allegedly, Comrie spent around $1 million for the ring. If you’re looking for a princess cut diamond with the same vibe but a very different price point (and we don’t blame you) consider lab grown diamonds. Despite being chemically and physically identical to naturally mined diamonds, lab diamonds are 20-40% more affordable, allowing you to find and purchase a bigger rock.

We've seen princess cuts scale back in popularity, though many fashionable brides still love this cut. We've recently seen clients setting their princess cut diamonds kite-style, or compass style, with the points facing north, south, east and west. We think they're due for a massive comeback, and our love for them never fades. And if you're seeking a princess cut in this day and age, then lucky you, because the lower demand and high yield of raw diamond, you'll be able to find a great princess cut diamond on a budget.

Don’t be afraid to reach out to Frank Darling when choosing your engagement ring. We can walk you through princess cut settings and styles that will last you an eternity and look good while doing it.

Princess cut diamonds will appear larger than round brilliant cut diamonds of identical carat weight.This has everything to do with the table size of the diamond shape. A diamond’s table is the flat facet on the top of the diamond. This facet plays an integral part in the overall sparkle of your diamond by absorbing light and directing it downwards into the pavilion (the bottom) where it is bounced among the facets and back out, creating the sparkling effect that diamonds are known fo.

In addition to their table size, a princess cut diamond's striking square shape further maximizes the illusion of size. One thing to be aware of, though, is that while the princess cut diamond appears larger than a round brilliant cut diamond, it may still seem smaller when compared to other fancy shaped diamonds of the same carat size. Again, this is because of the face-up size of the diamond. Consider diamond shapes with elongated sides, such as the Marquise, oval, or pear cut diamonds if you want the largest-looking stone possible from your carat weight. These elongated shapes stretch the table in a way that square shapes, like Asscher or princess cuts, can’t beat. Still, the undeniable beauty, regality, and sparkle of the princess cut diamond takes the cake.

If you really want that big diamond-forward look, consider a halo setting. Halo settings feature a ring of diamonds that surround the center stone and create an illusion of a larger diamond. When combined with princess cuts, the halo setting exudes incredible sparkle.

All settings are sure to make you feel like a princess when you wear your princess cut diamond, but some ooze royalty more than others. A solitaire setting will allow your princess cut diamond to shine as the main attraction. Take our Harper ring for instance, where four claw prongs hold your diamond in place while protecting its delicate corners. A barely-there band wears comfortably and further draws attention to your diamond. Sweet simplicity.

Another solitaire option we love is The Clutch. This unique half-bezel ring effortlessly floats your diamond off of your finger with an airy sculptural shank. Half-bezel in form, a thin bar encases the sides and corners of the diamond, making it a supremely secure setting for anyone who leads a more active lifestyle but doesn’t want to compromise on sparkle.

If you like a little added flair, a halo or hidden halo may be perfect for you. As we described above, a halo setting consists of a circle of smaller diamonds that surround your center princess cut stone. These delicate diamonds add textural and visual appeal to your engagement ring while creating the illusion of a larger center stone. Win-win! A hidden halo is a bit more understated, with the halo of diamonds hidden away from top view and usually only visible from the side.

While we’re discussing flair, we would be remiss to not talk about cluster settings, which feature clusters of small diamonds that surround your princess cut stone on either side. With delicate Marquise, round, and pear diamonds, The Primavera setting is a perfect pairing for your princess cut.

Another favorite is a split shank setting. An exciting twist on the standard engagement ring, split shank settings feature a shank that has been split in two before meeting at your center stone. This setting is an excellent choice for unconventional brides looking to stand out from the crowd. Plus, the split shank can be combined with other styles of settings. Our Link Pavé, for example, features a wide open split shank diamond studded setting with a hidden halo.

While less expensive than round cut diamonds, princess cut diamonds can still be more costly than other fancy diamond shapes. Princess cut diamonds are less expensive than round brilliant cut diamonds for a variety of reasons. Perhaps most importantly, round brilliant diamonds create the most raw diamond waste from their cutting and faceting process. All rough diamonds are strategically cut to maximize the rough diamond. Or, if there is enough rough diamond left over, to create another diamond from that material. However, round diamonds use most of the rough diamond up and produce diamond scraps that are unable to be utilized in a different shape. Because of this waste, round diamonds fetch a higher price than princess cut diamonds.

Princess cut diamonds tend to be more affordable than most diamonds. This is because the cut yields a high amount of the rough diamond, so less of the diamond goes to waste. Meanwhile, a round briliant diamond is the most expensive shape because of the high amount of rough diamond waste. Additionally, thanks to the current low market demand, the princess cut currently sports a very reasonable price tag.

If you have your heart set on a princess cut diamond, Frank Darling has thousands of diamonds available that range widely in price. Our diamond concierge is here and excited to help you find the diamond of your dreams.