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11.04.20

How to Buy the Most Beautiful Pear Shaped Diamond

A pear shaped diamond, or teardrop, is a distinctive, timeless choice. Get tips and tricks to find your perfect pear.

By Stephanie Dore

Sophie Turners pear shaped engagement ring
 Sophie Turner’s pear shaped engagement ring. Credit: Sophie Turner’s Instagram

From Victoria Beckham to Cardi B to Sophie Turner, there’s no denying that pear-cut diamonds are still a hot engagement ring choice. While us everyday folk might not cop a monumental stunner like these celebrity ladies, we can still fall head over heels for the modern romance of a pear shaped diamond ring.

Conjuring images of strength and shields, teardrops and hearts, a pear’s graceful, sweeping curves are punctuated by a single point, creating a unique, elegant choice. But is a pear shaped engagement ring right for you? Besides figuring out which direction you’re supposed to wear it, there are a few additional things to know before dropping dollars on this diamond shape. 

In Love with the Shape

Also called a “teardrop” shape, pear-cut diamonds kind of look as though a round brilliant and a marquise cut diamond had a baby that turned out exactly half and half. It’s brilliant facets offer the same sparkle of a traditional round, but with a more distinctive shape—and often significant savings, when compared to a round brilliant with the same carat weight, color, and clarity.

Round Brilliant Diamond
Marquise Cut Diamond

Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes

While pear-cut diamonds definitely have their upsides, not every pear is created equal. Which can make them tricky to buy. When doing so, the shape, symmetry, and length-to-width ratio of a pear cut can be just as important as the four Cs. You’ll hear the following terms when it comes to a pear cut: points, wings, bellies, shoulders, and heads. So study up your anatomy and you’ll be good to go.

One of the most important things to look at when purchasing a pear is its proportions. When viewing a pear-cut diamond from above, try picturing an imaginary line from the point through the center of the head (the rounded end). Then, look at each side. Are they even? Do the wings (sides) gently curve? Too flat and your diamond will look more slender and triangular. Too round and your diamond may come off as short and stout. You want the belly (right across the middle) to be even, and the table and culet to fall right in the center. And you want shoulders (the curves toward the wider end of the stone) to have a nice, equal curve. Too flat, and the diamond might appear squared off, or just flat like a pancake. Which isn’t as cute as it sounds. 

A very elongated pear cut diamond
An elongated pear cut diamond
A pear cut diamond with a flat bottom (shoulders)
A pear cut diamond with
more flat shoulders
A very round pear cut diamond
A plump pear cut diamond
A short and stubby pear cut diamond
A shorter and rounder pear cut diamond
An elongated pear cut diamond
A long and skinny pear
cut diamond
A pointy pear cut diamond
A very point pear cut diamond
A pear cut diamond
with a black bow tie
(note the large stripe across the middle)

On my Suit and Tie-ish

While a throwback bow tie might be all the rage when it comes to fashion moves, you don’t want your diamond wearing one. And pears are definitely trying to get in on that action. That’s right, pear-cut diamonds (as well as ovals) can have what’s called the “bow tie effect.” This gray or black pattern cuts through the widest part of the stone and looks like—you guessed it—a bow tie. A well-cut stone will minimize this effect, and maximize your diamond’s sparkle.

The Color Code

As with other fancy-shaped diamonds (think marquise and heart), pear-cut diamonds tend to hold more color than a round brilliant cut, especially in their tips. So it’s best to stick to a higher color grade, or set the diamond in yellow gold to disguise some of its color. 

Getting to the Point

That point at the end of a pear (in fact, any pointed corner on any cut of diamond) is the most delicate part of the stone, and therefore prone to breakage. So always look for a setting that protects the tip (there are plenty of options), not exposing it to too much of the rough stuff. If you’re not prepared to baby that point a little, a pear might not be the perfect shape for you. An oval can give you a similar elongated look with a slightly less delicate shape.

How to Buy the Most Beautiful Pear Shaped Diamond

Shopping online for a pear-cut diamond will definitely offer you the widest selection. But remember to look for jewelers that offer photos or video of the actual stone, so that you can get a first-hand view of its overall shape, symmetry, and length-to-width ratio. Whether you prefer an elongated, slender shape or a shorter, more 1:1 cut is up to you, but since every pear is unique, you want to see it with your own two eyes.

Like ovals, pear-cut diamonds are cut shallower than a standard round brilliant cut, which means more surface area, which means it will look bigger than other shapes of the same carat weight. And unlike color, you can shop the lower clarity grades because pears tend to hide inclusions well.

2 carat round diamond vs. 2 carat pear diamond engagement ring

Still Wondering Which Way is Up?

Which direction you should wear a pear-shaped engagement ring seems to be a popular quandary. But it doesn’t have to be. Historically, the point has faced out (toward your fingernail) to give the appearance of lengthening the finger. But if you want to flip it and reverse it, go right ahead. 

No matter your preference, the pear shaped diamond engagement ring is a breathtaking alternative to the round brilliant. A subtle combination of romance, strength, and femininity, pear-cut diamonds are definitely a super sparkler and they’ll keep you standing out from the ringfie crowd. 

Need a bit more inspiration? Take a look at some of our favorite celebrity pear cut engagement rings. A gorgeous alternative to the round brilliant cut diamond, pear shapes show off a subtle combo of romance, strength, and femininity that’s hard to beat. And they’re sure to sparkle as brightly as you do.

Dreaming of a Pear Shaped Engagement Ring?

Head over heels for pears? Click here to get a free sketch of your dream pear shaped engagement ring, or browse pear shaped engagement rings from our collection. When you’re ready, order a try at home kit, and take a few styles for a test drive.

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