31.07.24

The Ultimate Guide to the Bezel Ring Setting

Are you a hugger? Because we certainly are around here. And by hugger we mean a bezel engagement ring lover! Bezel settings are like the hug person of the engagement ring world. They closely envelop your precious diamond in gold, keeping it warm and secure, protecting it, loving on it. You get the idea. Whereas prong set rings hold a diamond aloft, a bezel ring setting tends to sit closer to the body. They also give off a modern, casual, friendly look that has a bit of history to it, instead of a cool, traditional feel.

But in all seriousness, if you’re not a bezel lover yet, you’re about to be because here’s your ultimate guide to the bezel ring setting. Everything you need to know (and love) about this engagement ring style.

What Is a Bezel Ring Setting Anyway?

Maybe you’re thinking “what’s with this bezel setting trend” but, darlings, it’s nothing new at all. In fact, bezel settings date back to ancient times when our ancestors rocked some seriously fabulous jewels. The bezel is one of the earliest setting types for its straightforward simplicity and security. Fast forward to today, and you’ll see them gracing the fingers of trendsetters and fashion icons. Think Emily Ratajkowski or Gwyneth Paltrow. Yep, these ladies know a thing or two about timeless elegance.

A bezel setting basically just surrounds your diamond or gemstone in a thin rim of metal, instead of securing it with several small, thin prongs. A full bezel goes all the way around the stone, molded carefully to the exact dimensions so there are no visible gaps. A half-bezel setting secures the diamond from just two sides, so, say you cut away two opposite quarters of that original full bezel setting.

Three yellow gold bezel engagement rings are worn on an index finger. The top bezel ring setting features an east west set emerald cut diamond with side stones, the middle ring is an oval cut diamond solitaire, and the third ring is an emerald cut split shank setting. — Whether you set them east west or north south, bezel ring settings are timeless yet trendy and will never point you in the wrong direction.

The Pros and Cons of the Bezel Ring Setting

There are definitely upsides to buying a bezel set engagement ring, and some tradeoffs. What’s on our list?

While it’s hard to pick just one, we have to say that the superior protection that a bezel ring setting that beveled engagement ring supplies to your stones is its best feature.

Pro: Enhanced security

The metal rim keeps your stone safe from life’s little bumps and knocks. Perfect for daily wear!

Pro: Need protection for fragile stones? A bezel ring setting can help!

If you’re into delicate stones like emeralds, a bezel setting is your new BFF.

A gemstone engagement ring with trapezoid diamond side stones and bezel ring setting — When it comes to picking a gemstone like aquamarine, topaz, sapphire, or ruby for your center stone, you can’t go wrong with bezel!

The Gumdrop | An emerald cut diamond sits inside a chunky and bubbly bezel in yellow gold — Juicy and sweet, chunky engagement rings have us by a chokehold. And luckily, unlike the candy of the same name, you can’t choke on this Gumdrop.

Con: Chunkier appearance

Some might find them a bit bulky compared to prong settings. Luckily, the chonk is in, and many prefer to compliment their chunky bezel with an equally chunky setting (hello, Gumdrop!).

Pro: The illusion of a larger stone

When the metal matches the stone, it can make your gem look even bigger. Talk about a win-win!

A five stone two tone engagement ring with yellow gold band and white gold bezel — Love yellow gold but trying to maximize the appearance of the size of your stone? Consider two tone engagement rings! Framed in platinum or white gold, the icy metal perfectly blends with your diamond while its yellow gold band playfully pops with color.

an east west bezel set emerald cut diamond engagement ring is worn atop The Dad Band. Both rings peek out out of a jacket sleeve — With a bezel setting you can wear sweaters with ease, there are no fussy prongs that can snag on any strings.

Pro: No snagging

Unlike prong settings that love to catch on everything, bezel settings are smooth operators.

Con: Higher cost

More metal and labor-intensive setting can mean a heftier price tag. Heart set on a bezel set ring? We can help. Schedule an online or in-person consultation and our bespoke ring designers can help you find a setting and diamond that works for your heart and eyes as much as it does your budget.

A half bezel style emerald cut diamond engagement ring is adorned with baguette side stones halfway around the setting — Sure, bezel engagement rings can be expensive, but so can all other types of engagement rings too. The more ornamentation your ring contains, the more likely it will cost more. But hey, if you’re going to splurge it’s best to ball out on diamond details and lush sparkle, right?

The backside view of The Golden Bathtub, a bezel set engagement ring with open bottom but fully encased sides and knife edge shank. — Buy a bezel engagement ring and its bath time will be as painless as a rubber duck in a (Golden) Bathtub.

Pro: A bezel ring setting is easy to clean

A quick rinse, a gentle scrub, and you’re good to go. Bezel settings are super low maintenance.

What Are the Disadvantages of a Bezel Ring Setting?

Sure, the pros outweigh the cons but let’s dig deep into the disadvantages of bezel settings. Bezels tend to be super secure, but the metal-heavy look might not be everyone’s cup of tea. They can be slightly harder to clean if oils, lotions, and dirt get trapped in the back of the setting (usually easy to resolve, but it does happen). And some folks think it makes the diamond look smaller (though, we disagree).

Many believe that bezels provide a metal heavy look that distracts from the gorgeous sparkle of a diamond. To that, we say-“But have you seen this custom five stone emerald bezel stunner?”

A cushion cut champagne diamond is surrounded by yellow gold bezel — If you’re like the Olympians and want to go for gold, opt for champagne diamonds. This warmly hued diamond color will effortlessly meet the metal for a totally cohesive look with no sacrifice in visual size.

Does a Bezel Ring Setting Make Diamonds Look Smaller?

The best way to avoid a bezel causing your stone to look smaller is to choose a metal that matches your stone best. For example, if you want a very white diamond, a white metal will help it look larger rather than interrupting the look. A warmer diamond might then appreciate a yellow gold bezel. But if, on the other hand, you really want the bezel to be noticeable, a contrasting metal will help!

How Thick Should a Bezel Setting Be?

You want your bezel thick enough to protect the stone but not so chunky it overpowers it. Think Goldilocks – just right. Choosing an expert craftsperson who customizes the setting to your exact stone is key.

The side view of The Twist Bezel — Working with the right jeweler is key in determining the perfect thickness of your bezel. Schedule and in-person or virtual design consultation today and we can help you seamlessly customize your setting to stone.

An oval diamond is framed in bezel and then surrounded by a halo of pave diamonds in prong and bezel setting — Halo engagement rings encircle your center stone with smaller diamonds to create an illusion of a larger stone.

What Type of Setting Makes a Diamond Look Bigger?

While prong settings are known for maximizing size, bezel settings can also work wonders with the right design tweaks.

The Lunette Marquise | a yellow gold half bezel set engagement ring with central, east west set Marquise diamond — The Lunette | East West Marquise

The Lunette Emerald | a half bezel set yellow gold engagement ring with an emerald cut diamond — The Lunette | East West Emerald

Choosing the Perfect Bezel Set Engagement Ring

While you can certainly set any stone in a bezel setting, there are some that really are the stars of the show, namely round brilliant cut diamonds, emerald cuts, and ovals. The round and oval are the easiest to fit in a bezel because it’s easier to curve the metal than make sharp corners, and they look super clean. Emerald and Asscher cut diamonds set in a bezel will amp up the Art Deco look, emphasizing the clean lines and geometry of the look.

You can also choose any metal you like for your bezel setting, including yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, or platinum. The metal is personal preference and can totally change the vibe of your ring. If you love yellow gold but want a super white diamond that looks huge, you can also go with a two-tone bezel set engagement ring with a yellow gold band and white gold or platinum bezel around the stone.

Want a halo around your bezel? You can do that too! Don’t be afraid to mix and match setting details to find your perfect combination! Just be aware that the more metal and diamonds your ring rocks, the higher the price tag. But your forever gem is worth it, no?

A bezel set five stone engagement ring with central Asscher cut diamond that is framed by two trapezoid diamonds followed by two tapered baguettes — You can’t go wrong with bezel set anything. So listen to your heart and get the one, two, three, four, or five stone engagement ring of your dreams.

Get Some Bezel Set Engagement Ring Inspiration

Ready for your jaw to drop? Bezel ring settings come in a wide variety of styles, from classic to modern to vintage and antique. The options are endless, but here are a few of our favorites!

The Breezy Bezel

If you’re looking for the most effortless, easy-wear bezel setting in town, the Breezy Solitaire keeps it simple. Art Deco-inspired but totally timeless, this bezel is light, airy, and modern, floating the diamond off your finger with a barely-there band. A dainty split shank cathedral shoulder gives it just a hint of extra elegance and it stacks totally flush with your wedding band to boot. You can also set your diamond in an east-west setting with a bezel for a super modern twist on the look.

The Clutch

Want to air it out even more? The Clutch is our super slim, slinky half-bezel engagement ring setting. It’s created with a sculptural wire setting that keeps things super low-profile on your hand, highlighting your diamond in signature style. It’s designed to stack flush with slim wedding bands so you can create your perfect set.

The Triple Bezel

If you want to up the ante on sparkle with something that’s still super sleek and chic, a three-stone bezel setting is the way to go. This one is a real style statement, flanking your center stone with two tapered baguette side stones, all wrapped in clean, fuss-free bezels. Big look, without any snags (such a drag).

An oval cut diamond is set in thin bezel and surrounded by two tapered baguette side stones. — Or as we say; all bezel, all the way, The Triple Bezel is a home run.

A kite-set Asscher cut diamond features a yellow gold bezel with milgrain detail across the top — Magical milgrain details elevate your engagement ring and add a timeless twist to a surprising kite-set Asscher.

The Milgrain

Give your bezel set engagement ring a vintage twist with a delicate milgrain edge. This dainty beaded detail gives you instant heirloom appeal, but we’ve also paired it with a sculptural, interwoven basket to cradle your diamond. As low profile as possible, this bezel setting will not stack flush with a straight wedding band — but with these intricate design details, you won’t mind the gap.

The Art Deco showpiece

For a ring that really goes all out, this super-glam engagement ring style is a stunner. Its Art-Deco-inspired details and seamlessly integrated bezel setting are a perfect pairing. But it’s not for the faint of heart. An Asscher cut diamond is surrounded by a wide halo of alternating round and baguette cut diamonds for tons of extra sparkle. Engraved details on the underside of the setting echo early twentieth-century architecture for extra appeal.

The back side of an Art Deco engagement ring featuring ornate geometric designs in yellow gold — Art Deco remains a top engagement ring trend thanks to its classic incorporation of bezel and visually appealing geometric shape.

The Radiator | a yellow gold engagement ring with a champagne emerald cut diamond in a chunky bezel band — Big, bold, and gold, the Radiator is not to be missed. And with that sparkling champagne colored diamond, how could you?

The chunky gold ring

Love a big, bold gold ring? So do we. That’s why we’ve designed styles like The Radiator, which is low profile, low fuss, and totally eye-catching. The diamond is set into a ring with a stepped surface that reflects light all over the place. It’s perfect if you want a cross between a solitaire and a band, giving you the best of both. Or there’s The Gumdrop, a chunky diamond engagement ring which sets your diamond inside a smooth, oversized bezel for a fun, sexy take on sweet treats. It’s a comfortable wear that sits low your hand while making a pretty major statement.

Caring for Your Bezel Set Engagement Ring

Keeping your bezel set ring looking fabulous is a breeze with a bit of soap and water. Like any other diamond ring, you can add a few drops of mild dish soap to a bowl of water and use a soft toothbrush to get into the nooks and crannies. Dry it with a soft cloth. If you ever feel or hear your stone rattling around, have it checked by your jeweler for security. We recommend doing this once a year as preventative care. Bezel settings typically require much less maintenance than prongs, as there is more metal around the stone and it can’t as easily be pulled away.

A round brilliant diamond set in yellow gold bezel with a delicate diamond band sits atop a chunky yellow gold wedding band — As with most engagement rings, it’s worth it to take your ring in for bi-yearly cleaning. And luckily, your Frank Darling engagement ring comes with a complimentary care plan that includes free steam cleaning!

Ready to Buy a Bezel a Bezel Ring Setting?

Have we convinced you yet that this style should be at the top of your consideration list? We love all bezel settings for their added security, modern styling, and clean lines. You can explore our engagement ring collection to find just the right style for you. Or take our ring quiz to design your own dream engagement ring from scratch. You’ll even get a free sketch!

Can’t find exactly what you’re looking for? Ping our team of designers at hello@frankdarling.com with a bit about what you’re looking for and your budget and we’ll get you sorted in no time.