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23.08.19

Why White Gold is a Better Choice Than Platinum

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which One Do You Want and Why?

By Stephanie Dore

What is White Gold?

Much like your choice of partner, your choice of metal for your engagement ring can have a long term impact on your happiness, not to mention the longevity of your engagement ring. There’s karat (not carat) weight to consider, durability, maintenance, color, shine and of course, cost. But, first things first—let’s talk about white gold. What is it?

White gold is gold with some other metals mixed in. Those other metals turn the gold from the yellow color we think of when we think of gold to a cooler off-white.

What is White Gold Usually Mixed With?

White gold is usually alloyed with other white metals that make it harder. Some of those metals, like palladium, are innocuous, others, like nickel, less so.

Our 14K white gold alloy is 58% gold, 23% copper, 9% copper and 10% nickel. Our 18K white gold alloy 75% gold, 14% copper, 5% zinc and 6% nickel.

Unlike gold, platinum is white and bright. This is because it’s entirely platinum. Our platinum alloy is 95% platinum and 5% ruthenium, another member of the platinum family.

How Does White Gold Get its Shiny Finish?

White gold is almost always plated with rhodium. Rhodium is a hard, bright white member of the platinum family. It won’t tarnish or discolor and is unlikely to get scratched. Like platinum, it’s hypoallergenic. The actual layer of rhodium is thinner than a strand of hair, and it won’t change the thickness of the band.

The downside of plating is that it doesn’t last forever. Sweat, wear and tear, chlorine, and your natural body chemistry and pH balance will shorten the lifespan of the plating.

Generally, rhodium plating lasts about 6 months, at which point the natural color of the white gold will begin to show through. Part of caring for a white gold engagement ring is having it replated (AKA dipped) every six months to one year. This can usually be done when you take it in for polishing, and it will restore your ring’s bright white finish.

Similar to getting your nails done, the quality of a dip can vary from jeweler to jeweler depending on how thick of a plating they do, and it costs about $20-$50.

Should I get 10K, 14K or 18K White Gold?

14K white gold is the best blend of durability, price, and longevity. 14K white gold is about 58% gold, which makes it more durable than 18K white gold (containing 75% gold) and less alloyed than 10K white gold. 10K white gold is best suited for costume jewelry, and it can cause rashes, itching, or turn your finger green.

How Can I Tell if my White Gold Ring Needs Replating?

Look at the bottom of the band on the inside lip. Is it starting to yellow? That’s the natural white gold showing. It means it’s time to replate. No rule says you have to replate your ring. If you like the look of the warmer toned white gold, let it go. The plating will wear off, and you’ll have a lower maintenance ring underneath.

Why is My White Gold Ring Giving me a Rash?

In contrast to platinum, which is hypoallergenic, white gold almost always contains nickel. When nickel comes into contact with sweat, it can erode, creating a salt that irritates your skin. If you’ve ever experience itching from a piece of jewelry or discovered a residue or rash after taking off a cheap bangle, chances are you’re in the 5-10% of the population with a nickel allergy.

Does White Gold Scratch Faster Than Platinum?

Hardness is one area where white gold outshines platinum. Platinum is less hard than 14K white gold and scratches more easily. But, when white gold is scratched, the scratched metal leaves the surface of the ring, clinging to whatever scratched it. It’s lost forever. Platinum, on the other hand, can scratch, but is keeps its metal, creating a patina. This patina can be polished off to restore the metal’s original shine.

…So is Platinum Better Than White Gold?

There’s a lot to take into consideration, so we thought we’d break it down into the five main things you’ll want to think about before choosing a metal.

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which One’s More
Durable?

18K white gold isn’t really great at anything. 14K white gold is harder than platinum and scratches less, but platinum is stiffer and does a better job of holding the diamond in place long-term. Both are durable enough for daily wear and significantly more durable than yellow gold. Rose gold is also very soft.

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which One’s Lower Maintenace?

Unlike white gold, which entails replating and polishing every six months, platinum is a get-it-and-forget-it type of metal. Regular at-home cleaning plus an annual polishing will keep your ring looking good as new forever.

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which One is Shinier?

Platinum is white. White gold is more like an off-white. While the rhodium plating turns white gold from yellow to white, this finish requires a decent amount of upkeep to keep your ring looking fresh.

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which One’s Cheaper?

14K white gold is the most affordable metal choice for your engagement ring. It generally is around $300 cheaper than platinum, which is $300 you could put towards your center stone. Plus, you can always upgrade to a platinum setting down the line.

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which is Better for Sensitive Skin?

Platinum is hypoallergenic, making it the perfect metal for those of us with allergies. 14K white gold can easily irritate sensitive skin or those with nickel allergies.

White Gold vs. Platinum: Which One’s More Delicate?

Platinum finishes a bit nicer than white gold, with finer details and a more refined look. Jewelers love working with platinum because it stays where it’s supposed to. This can be especially important for dainty baskets or delicate prongs.

Platinum vs. White Gold: Which One’s More Sustainable?

Neither gold or platinum mining is sustainable. In fact, gold mining is much more environmentally damaging than diamond mining. The mining process leaks cyanide into the water, which results in a whole slew of downstream issues. That’s why we at Frank Darling use 100% recycled gold. This equally beautiful and valuable metal is in all ways identical to newly mined gold, minus the environmental and health issues

White Gold vs. Platinum: Which One is More Secure?

Platinum is less malleable than white gold, which makes it ideal for setting diamonds. It’s extremely difficult to bend, so it’s perfect for fine details and dainty prongs. Our two-tone settings usually feature platinum prongs for this reason.

Our Favorite Platinum Engagement Rings

Figure it out?

If you’re still not sure which metal is right for you, that’s okay. This is one of the last decisions you’ll have to make in the ring design process, so feel free to leave it until the end. There are plenty of other things to decide in the meantime, like your stone shape, setting height, and whether or not to get pavé diamonds on the band.

In the meantime, order a free try at home kit to test wear some white gold settings and see how they look on your hand. Or, if you’re still waffling between stone shapes, take the dream ring quiz to get a sketch of your perfect engagement ring.

Profile

Stephanie Dore

Stephanie is a jewelry lover, gemologist, and seasoned copywriter with a decade of experience in e-commerce and tech. A RISD graduate, Stephanie also studied at GIA and has worked in the jewelry industry for 20 years. When not writing about diamonds and jewelry, Stephanie is also a photographer and backyard flower farmer. She lives in Tacoma, WA with her two black cats.