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19.07.24

What You Need to Know About the 4Cs

Whether diamonds are your best friend or not, if you’re thinking about getting engaged (or just want to wrap yourself in sparkle), it’s important to understand the 4C’s of diamonds. Why? Well, the 4Cs of diamond grading — cut, color, clarity, and carat weight — are how we determine a diamond’s price as well as its overall quality. Some of us are total experts on the stuff, and have years’ worth of education on the matter. But you don’t need all that to feel comfy dropping major dollars. What you do need is a crash course so you know what you’re looking at, how to shop and compare diamonds, and how to get the most bang for your buck.

What Are the 4C’s of Diamonds?

Step right up to the diamond-decoding dance floor, where the 4C’s jive in perfect harmony! Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat are the slick moves for any diamond dazzler looking to shimmy into the spotlight. These are the swinging standards that boogie down to a diamond’s groove, setting the stage for that eye-popping bling. So, lace up your shopping shoes, and let’s boogie through the bling-bazaar, ready to sashay through the scintillating secrets of these fabulous four.

Two yellow gold bezel set engagement rings. One has an emerald cut diamond and the other has a round brilliant
While not always distinguishable to the blind eye, the 4Cs of diamonds can make a huge difference in the overall sparkle and appearance of your engagement ring.
A Toi et Moi engagement ring with a Marquise and emerald cut diamond.
It’s all about the sparkle, darling. Whether you want one stone, two stones, three stones, or (dare we say) more, the cut grade of your diamond will determine just how blingy your ring actually is.

Diamond cut

Diamond cut is not its actual shape or outline. It’s the quality of a diamond’s proportions and facets. Really, it’s the secret sauce that turns a dull rock into a blingy beacon. It’s all about how well those facets are shaped to reflect light. A well cut diamond is one that reflects the most light, creating that signature sparkle we’re all looking for.

Diamond color

Color grade evaluates the degree of a diamond’s colorlessness. Diamonds range from “I’m practically invisible” (D grade) to “I’m kinda yellow” (Z grade). Think of it like deciding between a snow-white t-shirt and one that’s a bit off-white. The colorless ones are rarer than a unicorn at a petting zoo, but a little tint? Totally cool and way cheaper.

An emerald cut cognac diamond in a chunky yellow gold band
Ever heard of a cognac diamond? It’s like the champagne diamond but a deeper and richer in color for a look that’s so cool we could drink it up.
A black diamond, Asscher cut engagement ring with black diamond pave wedding band is worn on a ring finger
While most colored diamonds receive their hues from the presence of chemical elements, black diamonds result from graphite inclusions!

Diamond clarity

Diamond clarity reflects the number, size, relief, nature, and position of the inclusions and blemishes observed in the diamond. Clarity ranges from “Flawless” (like a skincare ad) to “Inclusions Everywhere” (like a pizza with all the toppings). But here’s the kicker: those tiny flaws? Most are so tiny, they’re like invisible blemishes you don’t even notice, unless you’re a gemologist with a magnifying glass.

Diamond carat

Measurement of a diamond’s weight, not its size, because that physical weight can be distributed differently depending on the shape and cut.

A five-stone oval engagement ring
Want that big-looking diamond without the price? Consider combining smaller stones with a minimalist setting. This creates a cohesive flow and offers maximum finger coverage.

Which C Is the Most Important?

Well, it’s a bit like asking which “Friends” character is the best—totally subjective and depends on your preference! But here’s the tea:

  • Cut tops the list because it affects the diamond’s brilliance. A well cut diamond can make your stone look larger, more sparkly, and help disguise lower color and clarity.
  • Color is essential for those who prefer icy-white diamonds or those who want a warm hued stone. Champagne diamonds, fancy color diamonds… so many options. But if you want something that looks colorless without costing a fortune, you can find plenty of middle of the road color grades to suit.
  • Clarity has to do with flawlessness, but keep in mind that’s incredibly rare and expensive. We typically suggest looking for an “eye-clean” diamond that has some inclusions but they’re not noticeable without magnification.
  • Carat is crucial if size matters to you, but bigger without all of the above Cs isn’t really better. You can save money by shopping just under full-carat marks without having a noticeable difference in size.

Ultimately, you should use the 4Cs as levers you can push and pull to find your perfect combination. It all comes down to personal preferences and budget!

No Carrots Here-A Deep Dive on Carat Weight

Carat is a measurement of how much a diamond weighs. One carat equals 200 milligrams. More carats mean a larger, more noticeable diamond. But remember, bigger isn’t always better—it’s all about what fits your style and budget and how well that diamond is cut, otherwise you’ll just end up with a big, dull rock. Carat weight heavily influences a diamond’s price. A 2-carat diamond isn’t just double the price of a 1-carat—it’s significantly more because larger diamonds are rarer.

Three yellow gold rings. An eternity band with round brilliant diamonds, a plain yellow gold band, and an oval cut diamond in a yellow gold bezel setting.
A diamond’s carat weight is the measurement of the weight of a diamond. Unlike, the karat of gold which is a measurement of the amount of pure gold in your engagement ring setting. And both of these are different from carrots which are, well-you know, a vegetable you eat.
An Asscher cut engagement ring with four baguette side stones and claw prongs
Symmetry is particularly important in Asscher cut engagement rings thanks to their characteristic windmill faceting- it’s pretty easy to see when the symmetry is off.

Breaking Down Diamond Cut

Diamond cut is crucial to a diamond’s brilliance and sparkle. The cut grade assesses how well the diamond’s facets interact with light, including factors like brightness, fire, and scintillation. The GIA grades diamond cuts as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor. An “Excellent” cut reflects nearly all light entering the diamond, creating a dazzling display. The cut involves three primary components: proportions (the angles and sizes of the diamond’s parts), symmetry (the precision of the diamond’s facets), and polish (the smoothness of the diamond’s surface). When shopping for a diamond, prioritize cut over other factors to ensure maximum sparkle.

Getting Clear on Clarity

The diamond clarity grading scale ranges from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3). Flawless diamonds have no internal or external imperfections, while Included diamonds have noticeable flaws. Inclusions are like the diamond’s birthmarks or fingerprints, and no two are alike. They can be tiny crystals, feathers, or clouds. Surface blemishes are like tiny scratches or pits. Clarity affects a diamond’s pricing, with a less included stone being more expensive (and very rare). When shopping, keep in mind that many inclusions are microscopic and don’t affect a diamond’s beauty to the naked eye.

Salt and pepper diamonds prove that not all inclusions look bad. In fact, they can be downright beautiful.
Two diamond pendant necklaces lay side by side. One has a white gold chain and an icy white pear cut diamond. The second has a yellow gold chain and champagne emerald cut diamond
Whether you go icy white or warm you can’t go wrong with a diamond pendant necklace. Mix and match the many hues for a layered look that is totally luxe.

The Different Hues of Diamond Color

Diamonds are graded from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Colorless diamonds are rare and highly priced. Fancy colored diamonds (like pink, blue, or yellow) are graded differently and can be even more valuable than colorless diamonds due to their rarity. Color is perceived by the eye second to sparkle, but is completely personal preference. Some folks like a super clear, white diamond while others prefer a shimmering, warmer toned stone. Look at some samples in different settings to discover what you love.

How to Check the 4Cs in Your Diamond

While you can certainly get a loupe to examine a diamond in person, asking for an official grading report from a reputable third-party gemological laboratory (like GIA or AGS) is your best bet. These labs are staffed by expertly trained gemologists to objectively grade each diamond against sample sets, using high end technology to determine a diamond’s 4Cs.

A three stone oval engagement ring is worn on the ring finger while a yellow gold wedding band is worn on the pointer finger
Always check to see that your diamond comes with an official grading report-because you’re too pretty to be swindled.
An engagement ring stack with an east west set oval diamond is worn on a finger in dappled light.
Understanding which of the 4Cs you want to prioritize can help you balance your budget so you can get the biggest and best bling for your buck.

Balancing the 4Cs for Your Budget

Before you even start shopping around for diamonds and engagement rings, you have to decide on your budget. It’s good to have a number you’re comfortable with in mind and then shop within that instead of getting disappointed. Then, you can decide what matters most to you. If sparkle is your priority, focus on cut. If size is key, you might compromise on clarity or color. Perhaps you get a slightly lower clarity grade that’s super sparkly (which can also help disguise internal inclusions) to save some cash.

Maximizing Your Diamond with a Ring Setting

Most of us aren’t just buying a diamond to have it sit around, we’re setting it in an engagement ring or other fancy jewelry, so of course that jewelry matters in choosing an overall look. It can also affect the appearance of a diamond. For instance, a super white diamond will be made even whiter set in a white metal, like platinum or white gold, whereas a warmer diamond will look fantastic set into yellow or rose gold. If you’re choosing an engagement ring setting with additional diamond accent stones, try to match them as close as you can to your center stone to ensure a cohesive look. For more help choosing a diamond and setting, our team of experts is here to assist!

An east west set oval engagement ring is set in a yellow gold cathedral ring setting with a hidden halo
Wondering how to make the most of your diamond? Reach out to us at hello@frankdarling.com and we can help you design a piece that speaks to the scintillating sparkle of your stone!

Ready, Set, Shop for a Diamond

So, now that you have a basic understanding of the 4Cs, you’re ready to roll right? Right! Remember, diamond cut is above all the most important quality as it has the most impact on the overall sparkle. But from there, color, clarity, and carat weight are all up to personal preference and budget.

Check out our diamond search where you can view 360-degree images of more than 10,000 diamonds and don’t forget to zoom out (because size can be deceiving), or book a virtual or offline appointment at our New York or San Francisco studio to view certified lab-grown and natural diamonds in person.

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