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25.08.26
Antique-inspired engagement rings: How to get the look
By Paige Wasserman
We’ve recently seen a major appetite for antique inspired engagement rings in our Frank Darling showrooms—truly, an explosion of brides looking for a something new that looks like a something old.
Of course, this trend isn’t coming out of nowhere. We’ve seen intricate styles of yore boom in the wake of Taylor Swift’s engagement, which featured a massive 8-10 carat collet-set old mine or elongated cushion cut, enrobed in intricately engraved yellow gold. Many of these details are center stage in antique fine jewelry.
In tandem with our American Royal Engagement, we’ve noticed that in a time where automation is center stage, our clients have grown weary of simple, templatized items that feel mass-produced (though none of our pieces are—Frank Darling rings are handmade in New York City). Our customers want something that feels personal, handmade, historic and as alive as their love. And we completely agree.
If you have access to an antique engagement ring, perhaps an heirloom or an estate piece, that’s wonderful. But if you want a new custom piece made with the thought, care and details of antique craftsmanship, you’ve come to the right place. We’ll show you how to get the look for your future heirloom.
Old Mine Diamonds
Since the Swift-Kelce engagement, we’ve seen a boom in requests for old mine diamonds.
A mainstay of the 18th and 19th centuries, old mine cut diamonds, aka miner’s cut, are known as such because they came from “old mines” in India or Brazil, before newer mines started popping up in Africa.
Each one was hand-cut, so they are much less precise and have way more personality than newer diamonds.
They have 58 facets, a squarish outline, and predate the more modern elongated cushion cut diamond, which shares a similar soft rectangular shape but has radiant facets for an intense “crushed ice”-esque sparkle.
If you love the shape of a cushion cut but want an antique charm, this is the cut for your antique inspired piece.
Old European Diamonds
Another antique cut we love is the old European cut. The direct predecessor of today’s modern round brilliant, old European cut diamonds were all the rage from the late 19th to early 20th century. You might also hear them referred to as “old mine cut” diamonds, and that wouldn’t necessarily be wrong, and if you’re browsing for vintage engagement rings, you’ll see these diamonds everywhere. Here’s the difference: Old mine cut diamonds came first, and they have a more squared, cushion-like outline. Old Europeans are the round version.
Rose Cut Diamonds
Then there’s the rose cut diamond.
Rose cuts evolved centuries ago from flat diamond cuts. They retain the flat back of diamond cuts of yore with simple triangular facets on top; they’re shallow with very chunky facets.
Because they’re not “brilliant cut” like most of the diamonds you’ll see on the market, they don’t have the same kind of sparkle. They make up for it with a ton of fire, subtle flash, and a super low profile perfect for active, modern lives.
We see lots of people with eclectic senses of style reach for these. Some clients ask us about opals; people love their iridescence and subtlety when compared to fiery diamonds. We strongly advise against this, as an opal is a 5-6 on the Mohs Hardness Scale—we joke that you can destroy an opal from breathing on it wrong. Instead, we recommend a rose cut diamond for a similar effect.
Generally, antique diamonds will offer a more subtle rainbow glow than the bright white brilliance of a mass-market sparkler. If you want intense light play, an antique diamond cut may not be for you, but if a delicate candlelit glow and a perfectly imperfect cut are calling your name, it’d certainly behoove you to reach for one of these antique cuts.
Most of the antique cut diamonds we have in our inventory are lab grown diamonds, though we do also offer recycled diamonds and natural diamonds (all conflict-free and ethically sourced). Lab grown diamonds will run you significantly less in cost than a natural diamond. If you want a lab grown diamond with the charm of an antique natural diamond, you may want to opt for what’s called a champagne diamond. Champagne diamonds range N-Z on the color scale, and they offer a warmer tint reminiscent of vintage and antique diamonds.
And now… the setting.
As for setting your diamond, the best way to get an antique-looking engagement ring is to emulate metalsmithing and jewelry making techniques of bygone eras. Here are just a few antique engagement ring details we love:
Milgrain
Ah, milgrain. The instant vintage.
This little design detail wears like tiny metal beads cut into your ring, typically in a row along the edges of a band or even around a bezel diamond setting.
You can add this engraving style to just about any ring to give it a quick, easy vintage nod. It’s subtle, sweet, and can be slightly masculine (think of it like menswear for women) or totally ladylike if applied to some floral marquise style for something all out.
Pictured to the side, you’ll see milgrain framing an emerald cut stone. It turns an otherwise sleek, chic style into something that feels a little more historic.
We’ve also featured a few of our collection styles below, which boast stunning milgrain work.
P.S., it’s always, always made to order, just for you.
Engraving
For those who long for wearable art, engraving is the perfect antique design element to incorporate into their rings.
A jeweler will use special knives to carve out one-of-a-kind designs, which can be geometric, nature-inspired with floral images, and even psychedelic designs with waves and squiggles.
It’s the perfect way to show your personality, to flaunt that you don’t just have a paint-by-numbers ring; rather, you own a piece of art that a craftsperson meticulously built.
In the vein of engraving, we’d be remiss to not mention that we offer custom engravings on the insides of our wedding bands and engagement rings.
Filigree
Filigree is a delicate style of metalwork where thin strips of metal are laced together to create a beautiful design, usually one calling back to nature.
Countless Frank Darling pre-set designs feature filigree, especially in the shanks of our settings, to add a subtly romantic touch. We also love adding it to our custom designs.
More prongs, please.
There’s nothing more timeless than a prong set engagement ring, with its diamond shining bright, elevated over the finger, minimal metal blocking its sparkle. And we get that most folks wouldn’t want more prongs, but trust us—more prongs can easily lend your engagement ring a vintage feel.
Settings such as button backs, collet settings or belcher settings can lend your stone extra protection and charm, and when they’re extra sculptural and intentional, that’s where the magic happens.
Things to Consider When Customizing an Antique Inspired Engagement Ring
How much does an antique inspired engagement cost? It’s a question with no straightforward answer, but we’ll give you some guidance.
Due to their scarcity as a nonrenewable natural resource, natural diamonds will cost you more than lab grown diamonds, which take only weeks to be produced at scale. And within these two categories, each respective diamond will vary in cost depending on your four Cs: carat, clarity, color and cut.
Additionally, the trend cycle moves quickly these days, so different diamond shapes fluctuate in market demand and therefore cost. Rest assured, our Frank Darling gemologists can certainly source you the stone of your dreams, one that is also within your budget.
As for the metal on your setting, more gold or platinum will mean a higher price tag, as will the level of labor that has to go into your specific piece. A simple prong solitaire with a plain high-polish band will run you less than, say, a very intricate engraved gold piece reminiscent of Taylor Swift’s engagement ring.
Where can I get an antique inspired engagement ring?
The thing that makes antique engagement rings so desirable is the attention to detail, the uniqueness of the pieces. With that, you’ll want to choose a jeweler that specializes in custom designs.
That way, you can work with a designer on realizing something that’s not just unique, but something that you love every single aspect of, right down to the prongs.
Frank Darling can do just that for you. We can design you the antique inspired ring of your dreams, one that honors the long-standing tradition of careful, loving jewelry craftsmanship.
We have plenty of pre-set rings that call back to antique jewelry details, which you can modify to your taste and your lifestyle. Or, we can design something completely original with you. You dream it, we make it.
Discover a Frank Darling showroom near you, and together, we can create something you’ll love forever.
| Cut | Era | Shape | Facets | Sparkle Style |
| Old Mine Cut | 18th–19th century. | Squarish, cushion-like outline. | 58 | Soft, warm glow with flashes of fire. Less precise than modern cuts. More character. |
| Old European Cut | Late 19th–early 20th century. | Round. | 58 | Romantic candlelit sparkle. The direct predecessor to the modern round brilliant. |
| Rose Cut | Centuries-old, predates faceted cuts | Round or freeform and flat-backed. | Typically 3–24 (varies widely) | Understated shimmer and fire rather than brilliance. A shallow, low profile. |
| Elongated Cushion Cut | Modern revival of antique cushion shapes. | Soft rectangular. | Brilliant-style faceting. | Intense “crushed ice” sparkle. |
FAQs
What is an antique inspired engagement ring?
An antique inspired engagement ring is a newly-made ring designed to capture the details, craftsmanship, and character of jewelry from past eras—think old mine or old European cut diamonds, milgrain edging, hand engraving, and filigree metalwork. It gives you the charm of an heirloom with the option to fully customize the design.
What’s the difference between an old mine cut and an old European cut diamond?
Old mine cut diamonds came first, dating to the 18th and 19th centuries, and have a squarish, cushion-like outline with 58 facets. Old European cut diamonds followed in the late 19th to early 20th century, are round rather than squarish, and are considered the direct predecessor to today’s modern round brilliant cut. Both offer a softer, warmer glow than modern diamonds.
Why do old mine and old European cut diamonds sparkle differently than modern diamonds?
Because they were hand-cut rather than machine-precision cut, antique diamonds are less symmetrical and have larger and fewer facets than modern brilliant cuts. This produces a softer, more candlelit glow with subtle rainbow flashes, rather than the intense white brilliance of a modern round brilliant.
What is a rose cut diamond?
A rose cut diamond has a flat back and a domed top with large triangular facets, a style that predates modern brilliant cutting. Rose cuts prioritize fire and subtle flash over sparkle, and their low, shallow profile makes them a popular choice for everyday wear.
What is milgrain on a ring?
Milgrain is a decorative technique where a jeweler adds a fine row of tiny beads of metal, usually along the edge of a band or around a setting. It’s one of the easiest ways to give any ring an instant vintage feel.
What is filigree in jewelry?
Filigree is a metalworking technique where thin strips of metal are twisted and laced together into delicate, often nature-inspired patterns. It’s commonly used in the shanks (the part of the ring that holds the diamond) of antique-style engagement rings to add intricate, romantic detail.
Are antique inspired engagement rings more expensive than modern ones?
It depends on the diamond and the metalwork, not the style itself. Natural diamonds cost more than lab-grown diamonds of the same cut, and pricing also varies with carat, clarity, color, and current market demand for that shape. On the setting side, more gold or platinum and more intricate hand-labor (like detailed engraving) will raise the price.
What is a champagne diamond, and how does it relate to antique style?
A champagne diamond is a lab-grown diamond that falls in the N–Z color range and has a warm, tinted look similar to the natural coloring often found in antique diamonds. A lab grown champagne diamond will be at a lower cost than a natural stone with comparable warmth.
Can I get a custom antique inspired engagement ring made?
Yes. Frank Darling designs custom antique-inspired rings from scratch, and also offers pre-set designs featuring antique details like milgrain, filigree, and engraving that can be adjusted to fit your taste. All pieces are handmade in New York City.
