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24.01.23

6 Reasons Not to Buy a Marquise Diamond

You’re unique. Your love is unique. Your style? Also unique! So obviously, you want a unique engagement ring to boot, which is, perhaps, why you’ve ended up here, reading a blog post about the Marquise diamond, one of the most unique diamond shapes available. Choosing a Marquise engagement ring is a bit of a throwback. It’s a shape that’s been around a long time — like, 18th century long time — and has just never really been that popular. And for good reason. It’s so pointy, it requires special settings, and it can look a little, well, dated. Marquise diamonds aren’t for everyone, and here’s why:

1. The Marquise Diamond is Out of Style

Sure, Selena Gomez might have lived by her lyrics, “I’m in my Marquise diamonds, I’m a Marquise diamond, could even make that Tiffany jealous,” and sure, the celeb endorsement does make the Marquise diamond sound hot, but, sorry Selena, it’s just not. Way back when, King Louis XV decided he needed a diamond shaped like the lips of his mistress, and thus the Marquise was born. Historical precedent aside, the Marquise diamond has hung back from the popular diamond shape crowd. Sure, there was a surge of popularity in the 1970s, but no one wants a ring that looks like their mom’s, right?

Here’s the good thing for you. Modern designers are having a bit of a moment playing with the potential for new Marquise engagement ring styles that stand out from the dated and dull crowd. Whether you consider Marquise diamonds to be on-fleek (do people still say that?) or a fashion flop, these Marquise ring styles are constantly popping up on our feeds and coming across our desks.

East West Set Marquise Diamond Rings

The trendy east-west style quite literally flips the Marquise diamond on its head by rotating your stone 180°, so it rests horizontally, instead of vertically, on the finger. Sleek and sexy (dare we say, slexy?), an east-west Marquise diamond offers just the right amount of unique sparkle that is so in with 2026 brides-to-be.

Our recommendation to up the ante on this head-turning look? Consider encasing those tips in a slick bezel or half-bezel setting. The result draws the eye into the hypnotizing sparkle that the Marquise is so adored for.

An east west set Marquise diamond with half-bezel setting
The Marquise diamond was cut to reflect the look of lips, so wearing it on its side doesn’t seem that out of pocket.

Our Fav East-West Marquise Rings

A six prong set Marquise diamond with thin, pave studded setting in white gold
Selena Gomez has done more for the Marquise diamond than any other celebrity in its entire history.

Pave Diamond Marquise Stunners

We blame Selena but we’re seeing this style constantly. And look, we can see why. There’s nothing quite like a big, shiny diamond set on a delicate band and positively studded with brilliant, sparkling diamonds. After all, if it was good enough for Selina, this Marquis style is surely good enough for us.

And while we love a studded pave band, we’re also over the moon for stylish diamond details, like a hidden halo, that celebs and normies alike can’t live without.

Our Fav Marquise Pave Engagement Rings

Float On with a Marquise That Defies Gravity

It feels like everyone and their mother is touting the “sculptural” engagement ring trend these days. But if there’s one diamond cut that seems to do especially well with floaty, off-the-finger, sculptural looks, it’s the Marquise. Blame it on its elongated shape or dainty, tapered tips. Whatever it is, we love at a look that defies gravity and induces gasps.

Prong set Marquise Diamond floats off of a yellow gold, peaked band
Obsessed with this custom stunner? Drop us a line and we can help you design your very own Marquise diamond ring that will have you feeling like your floating.
Close up of a woman wearing a black sweatshirt and east west set, chunky Marquise diamond engagement ring in yellow gold
We’re calling it now: Chunky engagement rings are going to be the hottest ring trend of 2026.

Hunky Chunky: This Style is Loud and Proud

Chunky engagement rings are having a major moment. And the Marquise diamond? Yeah, it was made for this trend. Its thin, tapered points practically pop when juxtaposed to a chunky, solid yellow, white, or rose gold and platinum band. Add in some two-tone flair and pop that contrast even further. Or play with color by incorporating fancy pink, blue, or yellow Marquise diamonds for a truly one-of-a-kind look.

Our Favorite Chunky Marquise Styles

YSK: The Face-Up Marquise vs. Oval Trick

Trying to talk yourself out of a Marquise because well (gestures to entire article)? Us too. But if you’re stuck choosing between a Marquise and an oval, know this: the Marquise will appear larger than an oval of the same carat. Size Queens and Kings take note. This is all thanks to those extraordinarily pointed tips at either end of the Marquise. See, they create the illusion of a longer stone, and while both Marquise and oval diamonds are elongated and present bigger than their actual carat weight, the larger spread of the Marquise wins out in perceived size. Now, if that’s *actually* a win or not remains to be seen.

Four Marquise diamonds, labelled 4ct, 3ct, 2 ct, 1ct, demonstrate the variance in carat size
What the Marquise diamond lacks in width it makes up for in length.
Four oval diamonds, labelled 4ct, 3ct, 2 ct, 1ct, demonstrate the variance in carat size
Still can’t decide between Marquise and oval? We can help!
Woman holding white lillies and wearing a Marquise cut solitaire engagement ring atop a diamond wedding band
Another reason to cover those tips? Protecting any delicate plants you just so happen to be handling.

2. Marquise Diamonds Are So Pointy

There’s really no way to get around the fact that Marquise diamonds are sharp stuff. And that means more risk is involved in both the setting and wearability of this diamond shape. Hear us out. Diamonds are hard, sure. In fact, the hardest substance on Earth. But they are not unbreakable. And the thinner and pointier they are cut, the more at risk they are to breakage. All it takes is a good knock on your granite countertop and you’ve chipped the point off! And no one wants that. If you’re choosing a Marquise diamond engagement ring, you’ll want to ensure that your setting has prongs or a bezel that covers each pointed end to protect it from potential hazards.

At the very least, ensure that you have engagement ring insurance. Or, shop from a reputable jeweler that offers a lifetime warranty and a complimentary care plan like, you know, us.

Shop the Look

3. Marquise Diamonds Are Wonky

If you’ve ever looked at a Marquise diamond and something just seemed a little off, the likelihood is you’re not wrong. Like we said up top, unlike round diamonds which have been standardized and cut to perfection, each Marquise diamond has its own unique personality when it comes to cut and proportions. This can make choosing one feel like an endless battle. But it’s easier if you know what you like. 

For instance, you’ll want to decide on the length-to-width ratio (how long or how wide your diamond will look) first. Some people prefer a longer, skinnier Marquise while others like a wider, shorter one. You’ll also want to make sure that all the angles look even, and the middle line runs straight through the stone when you’re looking through the crown. If one is off, it can make the whole diamond look, well, wonky!

Don’t worry, with our help you can totally avoid a wonky diamond.
A woman in lace and white wears a solitaire marquise engagement ring over a bar set diamond wedding band. On her pointer finger she wears a thin, round brilliant, french set wedding band
While we’re a fan of the classic, marquise diamond look, stout and sturdy Marquises will always have a place in our hearts.

The Golden Ratio: Avoiding the Football Look

While the Marquise diamond appears pretty static, it can actually come in a dizzying number of length-to-width ratios that greatly affect its shape. Often, while shopping for a Marquise, you’ll be warned against the dreaded football look. Shorter and stouter than the average Marquise, a low length-to-width ratio creates that football-like shape. While it is a matter of personal taste (we can see Travis Kelce rocking a footballesque Marquise) the following guidelines can help guide you to your perfect, golden ratio.

A Length-to-Width Ratio Cheatsheet

  • 1.75 – 2.15: Often considered the Golden Ratio of Marquise diamonds. Features a clean, classic look.
  • < 1.7: Your Marquise diamond is approaching football territory with a shorter height and broader center.
  • > 2.00: A long, thin look with excellent finger coverage. More likely to display a prominent bow tie.

4. Marquise Diamonds Have Bow Ties

What sounds fancy but isn’t? A diamond bow tie. What are we talking about? Well, it’s something you’ll find in elongated diamond shapes like ovals, pears, and yes, Marquises. This dark area, shaped like a bow tie, runs horizontally through the center of these shapes. It’s actually caused by the facets reflecting the shadow of your head as you gaze into the stone (no, we’re not joking) and can be seen as you rock the diamond back and forth.

Good vs. Bad Bow Ties

While you can find stones where it’s less noticeable, bow ties aren’t 100% avoidable. That’s right, because they’re due to the facets reflecting shadows you really can’t get an elongated diamond without one. However, not all bow ties are created equal. Marquise diamonds that have an excellent cut with ideal polish, symmetry, and depth will reflect a smaller bow tie than others. And here, smaller is better.

A six prong Marquise diamond solitaire engagement ring inyellow gold is worn against a black backdrop
Don’t let the fear of a bad bow tie get in your way of finding your perfect diamond – just shop smart, and you’ll be alright.
Prong set three stone marquise diamond engagement ring in platinum
One bow tie is bad enough but navigating three? That’s downright exhausting. Luckily, a three stone Marquise diamond ring is worth hassle.

How to Spot Bad Bow Ties

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to spot a bad bow tie online as perfectly lit 360° videos of your diamond won’t reflect shadows as they appear in real life. That’s why it’s important to always try to see your diamond in person. This allows you to get up close and comfortable in a variety of lights and see if your diamond’s bow tie is one you would feel comfy wearing each day.

Can’t make it to an IRL viewing of your stone? Consider a virtual consultation where you go over all there is to know (and look out for) about Marquise diamonds with a trusted bespoke ring designer. Or, reach out to us by sending us a message at the bottom right of your screen. You’ll speak to a real, live person who can provide up-to-the-minute advice. Trust us, your future self will thank you.

5. Marquise Diamonds Are Dull

One of the downsides of any fancy shape diamond (fancy means anything but round) is that they don’t have standardized cut grades, which makes it harder to determine a diamond’s brilliance, aka its sparkle. But that doesn’t mean they don’t sparkle, darlings. You just have to know what to look for. 

Let’s Talk Marquise Diamond Cut

And when it comes to Marquise diamonds, a table percentage of 53%-63% and a depth percentage between 58%-62% should be safe for visual appeal and brilliance. You’ll also want to look for excellent polish and symmetry to make sure your facets are sharp and well aligned. These parameters are a great starting point to narrow your search for the perfect Marquise diamond, but the only way to really ensure your diamond’s got that bling is to check out photos or video of the real thing and see how it looks. If it’s not absolutely catching your eye, it’s not the one.

A six prong Marquise diamond solitaire ring sits atop a square thin wedding band that sits atop a diamond eternity band with marquise and round brilliant diamonds
Unlike (allegedly) the diamond, those who choose a Marquise diamond tend to be the least dull people on earth.

Shop the Look

Ready to splurge? A natural, fancy colored diamond is particularly rare so will set you back particularly more.

Marquise Diamonds Are Cheap

Ok, first of all, who doesn’t like an affordable diamond? But let’s break this one down. An expensive diamond does not inherently mean more beautiful. Yes, diamonds are priced based on their 4Cs — cut, color, clarity, carat weight — but it’s more than that. Round diamonds, because they’re the most popular and most available, actually command a much higher price tag than most fancy shape diamonds. And Marquise diamonds are less popular than other fancy shapes, thus they do provide some easier-on-the-wallet price tags.

But get this — they also face up about 15% larger for their carat weight than a comparable weight round. So you’re getting even more bang for your buck. And when you consider swapping that natural diamond for a lab (which is the same thing as a natural diamond, btw) or Moissanite, that price drops even further.

Marquise Diamonds Are For You

If you’re still convinced that a Marquise diamond is the shape for you, then you’ve come to the right place. 

Explore our collection of stunning Marquise engagement ring styles, all handcrafted in NYC from recycled gold or platinum. Or jump in and find your perfect diamond first! Check out 360-degree images of more than 10,000 diamonds, or book a virtual or offline appointment at any of our salons to view certified lab grown and natural diamonds in person.

Not finding what you’re looking for? Email us at hello@frankdarling.com with a bit about your inspo and budget and we’ll curate a list of 5-7 exclusive stones that are just right for you.

FAQs: Marquise Diamond Engagement Rings

What is a Marquise diamond?

A Marquise diamond (pronounced mar-keez) is an elongated, football-shaped gemstone defined by its curved sides and two sharp, pointed ends. It is technically classified as a “modified brilliant cut,” featuring 58 facets designed to maximize sparkle—similar to a round brilliant cut.

Originally commissioned by King Louis XV of France to mimic the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour, this shape is famous for its “face-up” size. Because it is long and shallow, a Marquise diamond has one of the largest surface areas per carat of any shape. This creates a powerful optical illusion that makes the stone look bigger than it is, while simultaneously elongating and slenderizing the wearer’s finger.

Woman in an orange sweater holding a briefcase with a blue bandana - she wears multiple diamond accessories
With so many styles, a Marquise diamond will stand out wherever you are.
A yellow gold, Marquise diamond engagement lays on its side
Marquise diamonds, and diamonds in general, are a lot like cars. We mean they depreciate as soon as you buy them. Our recommendation? Diamonds are bought best for love, not their ROI.

How much is a Marquise diamond worth?

The “worth” of a Marquise diamond changes drastically depending on whether you are buying or selling. If you are asking about resale value, the reality is that diamonds are retail goods, not financial investments. Like a new car driven off the lot, a diamond depreciates immediately after purchase.

For natural Marquise diamonds, you can typically expect to recoup only a fraction of the original retail price on the secondary market. Lab grown Marquise diamonds have negligible resale value because they are a technology-based product where production costs constantly decrease. Therefore, the true “worth” of a Marquise diamond isn’t in its future investment potential, but in the massive upfront savings. Because Marquise diamonds typically cost 10-25% less than round diamonds, you save money on the buy-side rather than trying to make money on the sell-side.

How big is a 1 carat Marquise diamond?

A 1 carat Marquise diamond typically measures approximately 10mm long by 5mm wide. This is a massive size advantage compared to other shapes. For context, a 1-carat round diamond measures only about 6.5mm in diameter, and a 1-carat oval is usually around 7.7mm long.

This means a 1-carat Marquise appears nearly 15-20% larger than a round diamond of the exact same weight. This “spread” is due to the Marquise’s elongated extremities, which distribute the carat weight across a wider surface area rather than hiding it deep in the stone. If maximizing visual impact is your goal, the Marquise is the clear winner for size-per-carat.

Woman wears an east west set Marquise diamond engagement ring in front of a white wall
Warning: Buying a Marquise diamond engagement ring might have you feeling like the main character from a movie.
A yellow gold Maquise diamond engagement ring from behind with hidden tulip basket filled with diamonds and pave detail
Thanks to this nature inspired, floral basket, we’ve never heard the call of nature louder.

How much is a Marquise diamond?

The price of a Marquise diamond varies widely depending on its origin (natural vs. lab grown) and quality specs.

  • Lab Grown Marquise Diamonds: These offer the most significant savings. You can typically find a high-quality (VS clarity, G+ color) 1-carat lab Marquise for between $600 and $1,200.
  • Natural Marquise Diamonds: Mined stones command a higher price due to scarcity. A similar quality 1-carat natural Marquise usually costs between $3,500 and $6,500.

Regardless of the type, Marquise diamonds are almost always less expensive than round diamonds. If you are working with a strict budget but want a stone that feels substantial and dramatic, the Marquise cut is one of the most cost-effective shapes on the market.

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Stephanie Dore

Stephanie is a jewelry lover, gemologist, and seasoned copywriter with a decade of experience in e-commerce and tech. A RISD graduate, Stephanie also studied at GIA and has worked in the jewelry industry for 20 years. When not writing about diamonds and jewelry, Stephanie is also a photographer and backyard flower farmer. She lives in Tacoma, WA with her two black cats.